Shingle roofs succeed or fail at their edges. That is where wind first pries, water first tests, and workmanship first shows. Starter strips sit at those edges, quiet but essential. They provide a clean, straight line to begin the field shingles, seal the leading edge against wind, and carry water off the roof instead of beneath it. Skip them or install them carelessly and you invite blow-offs, leaks, and premature rot. Get them right and you set up the entire roof for a long, low‑maintenance life.
I have torn off hundreds of shingle roofs. You can tell within a few minutes whether the installer respected the edge. Proper starter strips at the eaves and rakes correlate strongly with roofs that last to their rating. Improvised or absent starters correlate with call-backs, stained soffits, and insurance claims after a spring storm. If you plan a roof shingle installation, or even a roof shingle repair near an edge, the starter course deserves your full attention.
What starter strips do that field shingles cannot
Most asphalt shingles have a factory sealant bead designed to glue one shingle to the next once the sun warms the roof. That bead sits near the bottom of the shingle, meant to adhere to the top surface of the shingle below. At the very first course along the eave, there is no shingle below, so a field shingle’s sealant can’t bond. Without a dedicated starter strip, you leave a loose front lip that wind can lift. The problem compounds as wind vibrates the loose edge, dust contaminates the sealant, and the nails begin to wallow in the sheathing.
A dedicated starter strip solves several problems at once. It establishes a straight reference line, offers a continuous factory sealant right at the edge, and bridges the joints in the first full course. Many manufacturers also design their starters with a short overhang and a target line for fasteners, encouraging consistent placement. Installed properly, the starter self-seals to the first course in warm weather, forming a strong bond that resists wind and water.
At the rake edges, starter strips do a different job. They don’t drain water the way eaves do, but they stiffen and seal the edge where wind attacks laterally. Homeowners notice rake failures first because shingles start flapping, then tearing, and the damage creeps inward. A sealed rake is cheap insurance.
Factory starter strips versus flipped shingles
For decades, crews built their own starter strips by cutting off the tabs of a three-tab shingle or flipping a https://maps.app.goo.gl/EZpVEgWhTN9oETvE7 dimensional shingle upside down to put the sealant near the roof edge. You can still see this on older roofs. It worked well enough in some climates, and it is better than nothing, but it carries trade-offs.
Factory starters are designed with the sealant close to the edge and a backing meant for adhesion. Their dimensions also align precisely with the exposure of common shingles. On a windy site, that extra bit of engineering matters. Flipped shingles sometimes place the sealant too far back from the drip edge, which weakens the bond right where wind pressure is greatest. On steep slopes, that distance becomes more critical. I still see flipped-shingle starters perform adequately on sheds and outbuildings, but on homes that see gusts over 60 miles per hour, I prefer factory starters every time.
If you use a flipped shingle, mind the sealant line. Make sure it ends up within about an inch of the edge after accounting for drip edge and overhang. Trim as needed so the coverage and alignment match the first field course. And never rely on roofing cement blobs as a substitute for a continuous sealant bead. Dabs fail unevenly; beads distribute force.
Preparing the edge: wood, metal, and membrane
A starter strip is only as sound as the edge beneath it. Before you unroll anything, look hard at the substrate. Soft fascia, delaminated plywood, or bowed edges telegraph through the shingles and compromise nailing. A half hour spent correcting the edge saves hours of repair later.
On most shingle roofing projects, I install eave metal, often called drip edge, over the underlayment at the rakes and under the underlayment at the eaves, unless the shingle manufacturer or local code specifies a different sequence. The goal at the eave is to direct water into the gutter and protect the sheathing edge. In cold climates, ice and water membrane belongs at the eaves beneath the starter. I run it from the eave up the roof to at least 24 inches inside the warm wall line. Pay attention to overlaps and end laps, especially above bay windows and porch roofs, where ice dams commonly form.
If the house has existing gutters, check the gutter brackets and back flashing. A gutter that sits too high can pinch the starter overhang, which can trap water. A gutter that sits too low can let water overshoot in heavy rain. I aim for a consistent starter overhang of about a half inch past the drip edge at the eaves, sometimes up to three quarters on steeper pitches. At the rakes, I keep the overhang tighter, typically a quarter to half an inch past the rake metal, to reduce wind leverage.
Laying a straight line when the deck is not straight
Old houses rarely give you a perfect edge. The sheathing might run proud at one end or sit shy at the other. Rather than chase those humps with your starter strip, snap a chalk line that represents the edge you want the roof to present to the street. The eye picks up a wavy eave from the ground. Chalk and a little arithmetic iron it out.
On a 40-foot run, if the edge wanders by half an inch, you can correct most of it by setting your line to a consistent overhang measured from the metal, then letting the starter bridge the minor irregularities. Where the deck is wildly out, add or shave the sheathing before roofing. Once you commit to a line, keep it. The first visible course will mirror any starter wander, and you will fight that curve all the way up the roof.
Nailing matters more than many think
The starter strip’s fasteners do not carry the same uplift as nails in the field courses, but they still matter. The nails must penetrate solid wood, not just skim the sheathing edge. I see too many nails driven too low in the starter, close to the drip edge where there is little wood to bite. Move the nails up to the manufacturer’s target line, usually a few inches back from the edge, and space them according to the wind zone. Four nails per starter piece suffice in mild regions. In hurricane-prone areas or on tall, exposed buildings, closer spacing is prudent, sometimes six fasteners per piece.
Use roofing nails with the proper shank and head, not drywall screws or staples. Staples were common decades ago and still show up on some tear-offs. They hold poorly under cyclic uplift and can split dry sheathing. Galvanized nails resist rust, but stainless steel earns its keep along coastal zones where salt air chews lesser metals.
Drive fasteners flush without cutting the mat. An overdriven nail shaves off the shingle’s granules and weakens the seal. An underdriven nail lifts the starter enough to interrupt the sealant bond with the first course. Both errors stack problems. A minute spent checking gun depth as the compressor warms up saves hours of trouble.
Where to start: eaves first, then rakes
Install starters along the eaves before the rakes. That sequence lets the rake starters lap over the eave starters at the corners, lowering the chance of water sneaking into the joint. At each corner, cut a small diagonal on the underside of the overhanging starter so water drips cleanly instead of wicking along the edge. On roofs with no gutters, this detail reduces those dark water lines on the fascia.
At rakes, set the starter so the sealant will engage the first field course at the very edge. Not every shingle brand expects starter at the rake, but more manufacturers have added this requirement because wind events have grown stronger and more common. If you skip rake starters and rely on the field shingle sealant alone, you leave a small lever arm where wind can get under the edge and peel. Many roof shingle repair calls after a storm trace back to bare rake edges.
Offsetting seams sets up the whole roof
Starter strips must break joints with the first full course. I offset starter seams at least 4 to 6 inches from the seams in the first row of shingles. Some manufacturers specify exact offsets, and I follow them when provided. The idea is simple: never stack seams. Water finds coincidences. When the starter and the first course share the same joint, capillary action has an easy path.
This offset discipline carries up the roof. Once you establish the starter and first course with proper bond and offset, the pattern tends to stay true. I still snap vertical control lines every three to four courses on long runs to prevent drift, especially with laminated architectural shingles where differences between pieces can add up.
Climate affects choices
A shingle roof in Arizona does not meet the same stresses as one in coastal Maine. In hot, dry climates, the sealant activates quickly, but UV exposure can bake out oils faster, making flexible sealants more important over the long term. In cold climates, the sealant may take days or weeks to bond fully, especially late in the season. I do not rely on sealant alone in late fall. I hand-press the leading edge on mild afternoons and, on north exposures where sun is scarce, add a small bead of roofing cement under the first course at the eave to help it settle until spring warmth completes the bond. Use cement sparingly. Too much cement can trap moisture and soften the mat.
In hurricane or tornado alley, pay attention to manufacturer high-wind nailing patterns and starter strip products rated for higher uplift. Some brands offer double-bead starters or wider profiles for beefed-up adhesion. In wildfire zones, check local requirements for Class A assemblies, which usually rely more on underlayment and deck treatments, but consistent sealed edges still help with ember resistance by limiting entry points.
When roof shingle repair intersects with starters
Most roof shingle repair calls focus on a small area, often after wind has lifted or torn shingles at the edge. If the original roof lacked a starter strip or used one placed too far back, repairing only the damaged field shingles may not stick. I inspect the eave edge for a continuous factory sealant at the lip. If it is missing or brittle, I remove a course or two and retrofit a proper starter. That turns a quick patch into a more thorough fix, but it prevents the same failure from marching down the edge over the next season.
On older roofs nearing the end of life, you will face the line between repair and roof shingle replacement. If the granules are sparse, the mat is exposed, and the sealant no longer bonds, a new starter strip will not overcome the age of the system. I tell homeowners plainly: we can secure the edge for a year or two, but plan for a full replacement, including modern starters, drip edge, and ice barrier. A transparent explanation costs less than a return call after the next storm.
Common mistakes I still see on tear-offs
Most problems trace back to three patterns. First, no starter at the rake. The field shingles were relied on to seal to thin air, and wind did the rest. Second, starter out of alignment, wandering in and out, which forces the first course to follow, leaving crooked exposure and inconsistent sealant engagement. Third, nails driven too low or into rot, which later “walk” and back out, lifting edges.
A few edge cases deserve mention. On homes with thick open-structure fascia made from cedar or redwood, installers sometimes let the starter overhang too far trying to meet the fascia face, which gives the wind a lever. Keep the overhang modest and rely on the drip edge to ferry water into the gutter. On hip roofs, the short eave segments near the hips often get less attention, yet wind batters those corners. I cut and cap those areas carefully, maintaining the same overhang and nail pattern as the long eaves.
Working clean and safe around edges
Edges are where gravity and gravity’s friends wait. I like roof jacks and planks set a couple of feet up from the eave on slopes steeper than 6 in 12. They make layout work accurate and keep boots off the fragile lip while the sealant is still inert. On single-story ranches, you can work from a ladder, but constantly stepping off and on increases risk and slows the job. A stable platform pays for itself in time and better results.
Keep the edge swept. Granules under the starter keep sealant from bonding and create little bumps that telegraph through. In autumn, leaves wedge where starter meets drip edge. A quick brush before laying the starter makes a difference. I also wipe drip edge metal on damp mornings when condensation beads up. The sealant bonds better to a dry, clean surface.
Manufacturer instructions and warranty realities
Shingle brands write their installation instructions for a reason. Their engineers test systems as assemblies: underlayment, drip edge, starters, field shingles, hip and ridge. If you deviate, you own the result. This matters not only for performance but also for warranty. Many warranties now require proof of starter strips at eaves and rakes, specific nail counts, and underlayment types.
If you are a homeowner hiring a shingle roofing contractor, ask in plain language what starter product they use and how they install it at eaves and rakes. A reputable contractor will answer without dodging and can show you the roll or bundle on site. On re-roofs over existing shingles, clarify how they will handle edge height and overhang changes. Layering can push the edge past the gutter line. Sometimes, the best answer is to remove old layers and restore a clean substrate rather than stack problems.
Integrating starters with ventilation and flashing
Starters are only one piece of roof performance. Poor ventilation can cook the sealant and curl shingles from below, while leaky flashing dumps water onto the starter area and rots the sheathing at the edge. Before installing a new shingle roof, I check soffit vents for clear airflow, look at ridge vent capacity, and verify baffles in the rafter bays. The coolest edges I see are on homes with balanced intake and exhaust. The hottest and most trouble-prone edges show blocked soffits and oversized can vents that short-circuit the system.
At valleys that die into eaves, water pours down at speed. Make sure valley underlayment laps over the eave membrane, and run the starter smoothly beneath any metal apron flashing. If a bay window roof projects below the main eave, I plan the starters so water drops free into the small roof rather than behind its step flashing. These tiny layout decisions prevent stained ceilings in dining rooms.
What good looks like on day one and day 365
Right after installation, a good starter course lies flat, follows a straight line, and shows a consistent overhang. The nail heads are invisible because the first field course covers them, and the factory sealant sits just shy of the drip edge or rake metal, ready to bond to the underside of the first course. On a warm afternoon, press the first course down gently along the edge to encourage contact.
After a year, the edge should look tight and clean. If you can lift the front lip of the first course with light finger pressure on a sunny day, something is wrong. If you see shiny nail heads at the lip or little steps in exposure where the course wandered, the starter probably telegraphed that error. Properly done, you will not think about the starter because the edge simply disappears into the roof line.
When to call a pro and what to expect
Some skilled homeowners can install starters on a simple ranch, especially for small shingle roof repair jobs along a straight eave. The learning curve is short for layout and nailing, but the risk lives at the edge. A slip off the lip or a small error in overhang can cost more than a contractor’s fee. Complicated roofs with multiple rakes, hips, valleys, and intersecting eaves justify hiring a shingle roofing contractor who has done it in your climate.
Expect a contractor to specify product lines, including the starter, and to show you how the starter integrates with drip edge and underlayment. Ask for their wind zone nailing pattern and how they handle cold weather adhesion. On a roof shingle replacement, the crew should correct rotten eave boards, straighten the deck edge, and not just cover over irregularities. They should also coordinate with the gutter contractor if one is involved, so the overhang and gutter height match.
A short field checklist for starters
- Verify sound substrate, drip edge installed, and underlayment lapped correctly. Snap a straight line for consistent overhang at eaves, tighter at rakes. Use factory starter strips where possible, align sealant within about an inch of the edge. Nail on the manufacturer’s line into solid wood, set depth correctly, respect wind-zone spacing. Offset starter seams from the first course and press the first course into the starter sealant on a warm day.
Cost, value, and the long view
A bundle of factory starter strips costs more than cutting tabs off a three-tab shingle, often by 10 to 25 dollars per square of roof. On an average home, that difference might add 100 to 200 dollars in materials. Labor time is similar, sometimes faster with factory starters because there is no cutting. Against the cost of a roof shingle replacement, that premium is small. Against the cost of calling a crew back to resecure a wavy edge, it is negligible.
Value shows up over years. When storms roll through, properly installed starters keep the leading edge glued down. Gutters stay cleaner because the water drips cleanly off the lip instead of wicking back. Paint on the fascia lasts longer because there is less splashback. Insurance adjusters find fewer missing shingles at the rakes. For homeowners, the roof simply does its job.
Final judgment earned at the edge
You can spend extra on architectural shingles, choose a color that flatters the siding, and upgrade the underlayment. If the edge fails, none of that matters. Installing starter strips with care anchors the system. The detail does not shout from the curb, but it shapes performance every windy night and every thawing morning. Whether you are laying your first shingle roof or refining your crew’s process, treat the starter as a key step, not a throwaway. The roof will repay you each time the weather tests the edge.
Express Roofing Supply
Address: 1790 SW 30th Ave, Hallandale Beach, FL 33009
Phone: (954) 477-7703
Website: https://www.expressroofsupply.com/
FAQ About Roof Repair
How much should it cost to repair a roof? Minor repairs (sealant, a few shingles, small flashing fixes) typically run $150–$600, moderate repairs (leaks, larger flashing/vent issues) are often $400–$1,500, and extensive repairs (structural or widespread damage) can be $1,500–$5,000+; actual pricing varies by material, roof pitch, access, and local labor rates.
How much does it roughly cost to fix a roof? As a rough rule of thumb, plan around $3–$12 per square foot for common repairs, with asphalt generally at the lower end and tile/metal at the higher end; expect trip minimums and emergency fees to increase the total.
What is the most common roof repair? Replacing damaged or missing shingles/tiles and fixing flashing around chimneys, skylights, and vents are the most common repairs, since these areas are frequent sources of leaks.
Can you repair a roof without replacing it? Yes—if the damage is localized and the underlying decking and structure are sound, targeted repairs (patching, flashing replacement, shingle swaps) can restore performance without a full replacement.
Can you repair just a section of a roof? Yes—partial repairs or “sectional” reroofs are common for isolated damage; ensure materials match (age, color, profile) and that transitions are properly flashed to avoid future leaks.
Can a handyman do roof repairs? A handyman can handle small, simple fixes, but for leak diagnosis, flashing work, structural issues, or warranty-covered roofs, it’s safer to hire a licensed roofing contractor for proper materials, safety, and documentation.
Does homeowners insurance cover roof repair? Usually only for sudden, accidental damage (e.g., wind, hail, falling tree limbs) and not for wear-and-tear or neglect; coverage specifics, deductibles, and documentation requirements vary by policy—check your insurer before starting work.
What is the best time of year for roof repair? Dry, mild weather is ideal—often late spring through early fall; in warmer climates, schedule repairs for the dry season and avoid periods with heavy rain, high winds, or freezing temperatures for best adhesion and safety.